Lviv . . . the most beautiful, romantic, full-of-personality little town in Ukraine there ever was. Not that I've been to that many towns in Ukraine quite yet, but I imagine that this is the best one (shhhhhh, don't tell Kyiv). It's quaint, historic, lively, full of stunning architecture, offers unique restaurants and fantastic parks . . . and we barely even scratched the surface. Like barely even scratched the surface.

If you're close, like we are, -- go. And go for at least one week. Most expats who live in Ukraine that I know, ourselves included, visit Lviv as a stopover on the way to somewhere else . . . usually, the Carpathians. But Lviv deserves so much more than to be a stopover point. So much more. And if you gloss through it for a day or even two, you'll be disappointed that you didn't stay longer. Trust me. And although you're in Ukraine, being in Lviv is an out-of-Ukraine experience. You'll understand when you get there.

Lviv City’s theme is “open to the world,” and that, it definitely is

Lviv with Kids

We spent three nights in Lviv, but whether you have three nights or three weeks, my recommendation is to start out by wandering around. The cobblestone streets and alleyways of this small town were made to be explored. Just walk. To "the Rynok," or old town square. Wander inside of it. Wander around it. Wander the nearby parks. This part of Ukraine was once part of Poland and the Austro-Hungarian Empire. And trust me, it will let you know. The architecture is rich, inspiring, and colorful. While not actually fresh and new, the architecture will be "fresh" and "new" to you if you are coming from Kyiv, Odessa, or further East.

When you wander a small town like Lviv, you will discover so many things on your own. Yes, we sought out some recommendations that others had given us, but some of the best things we found, we stumbled upon. So don't be afraid to get lost (actually, it is hard to in a town this size). Walk the alleyways, enter underground spaces, and follow your ears to the nearest set of street musicians. So.much.talent. Create your own unique Lviv experience. That's the best way to experience Lviv.

Stumbling upon historic sites in Lviv by strolling through the Rynok . . . the best way to experience this culturally rich city

But in case you do need some guidance, here are some of the things that we did:

Ice skated on the Rynok (Christmas lights were still up in late February - what a treat!)
Visited the Lviv Glass Museum (such a cool space; it's underground, and right off the Rynok)
Wandered into Saints Peter and Paul Garisson Church (so.much.history)
Stumbled upon a virtual tour of the city (look for the bar codes on the ground near statues, churches, and famous sights)
Took in and danced to the live street music
Visited all seven floors (!) of Lviv Handmade Chocolate
Indulged at Marmelad Jack candy store . . . perhaps more than once
Visited the Lviv Cat Cafe (go for the cats, not the food)
Ate at the following cool restaurants:

Arsenal Ribs: wow, the experience you guys! Not only great ribs, but such a fun atmosphere. Arsenal Ribs is located in a huge underground bricked-in hall in the medieval Arsenal, you can only eat with your hands (cue: kids in heaven), and your waiter chops your ribs at your table with an axe. And kids will love their gift shop. Cool wooden axes of all kinds!
Taco Taco Taqueria: for those of us away from home, craving good Mexican food, this is your spot. Great margs, too!
Valentino: this place is F-A-N-C-Y, but our kids loved it! We wandered to Valentino for breakfast, and we were nearly the only ones there (the crowd mainly comes for dinner, I suspect). The staff was incredibly attentive, the kids loved the upstairs full-sized play room, and the chefs made us things not even found on the menu (we asked for apple-cinnamon pancakes and french toast). Amazing.
Druzi Cafe: a bright, lively cafe — connected to a hostel — right off the main square. Menu options are A+.
Meat and Justice: not for the faint of heart, this restaurant features steak and sausages, and has an execution theme. Yes, execution. I told you that Lviv had unique restaurants, right? I’ll leave the fun a mystery and let you experience it for yourself, but we loved it. It’s located behind a church in the city’s old stone walls and has an outdoor playground in front (pro tip: the restaurant has the same owner as Arsenal Ribs).

Enjoying grapefruit tea at the Druzi Cafe Lviv, right off of the Rynok

Lviv Travel, the city's official tourism site, not only has a ton of great online resources and a very hip insta feed, they also have an electronic brochure on visiting Lviv with Kids. It contains everything from the best restaurants to dine at with kids, to the best museums, workshops, puppet theaters, and special events to attend with kids in and around the city. I highly recommend you check it out before your trip. You can find it here.

Where to Stay in Lviv

During our time in Lviv, we stayed at the Gruner Lviv Boutique Hotel. Established in 2019, the rooms are family-friendly with king beds and fully-equipped kitchens (including a dish washer - score)! The vibe is cool, chic, retro and modern all at the same time. From the outside, the apart-hotel has a noticeably Parisian look, with wrought iron balcony railings and beautiful exterior architecture. The beds are fantastically comfortable, boasting superior Belgian mattresses and linens. Bathroom floors are heated, rooms are fully sound-proof, check-in and check-out are fully online (our keys were waiting for us in a lock box that we were able to open digitally with a code). And what's more? It's pet-friendly!

The beautiful Gruner Lviv Boutique Hotel by night

From Gruner, it's an easy walk (with or without kids) to the main square. The Lviv Cat Cafe is directly across the street from the hotel (huge hit with the kids) and the beautiful Ivan Franko Park, with playground, is a five-minute walk. The Lviv Cathedral, Church of Saints Peter and Paul, and the stunning Opera and Ballet Theater are also close-by.

We opted for connecting superior and standard rooms for our family of six. While the Gruner doesn't have its own restaurant, it is connected (inside and outside) to Celentano Restaurant. Hotel guests can order room service from Celentano, including breakfast, from digital tablets provided in the rooms. If you dine in, Celentano does have a game room for young patrons.

Those big king size beds, heavenly sheets, and retro mod details at the Gruner Lviv Boutique Hotel

If you are looking for a full-service hotel with amazing amenities, we can also highly recommend the Grand Hotel Lviv. It is a stone's throw away from the Rynok and, as its name implies is, indeed, very grand. From the elegant entryway to the chandeliers, over-sized chairs, and massive headboards, the Grand Hotel makes its guests feel like royalty. And the underground swimming grotto complete with a pool, Jacuzzi, and plunge pool? Wow. This amenity sets the Grand Hotel Lviv apart. A wonderful surprise we received from spending our final night in Lviv at the Grand Hotel? A bottle of champagne and fruit platter compliments of the hotel. Now that is how you welcome guests.

Visit Lviv

So go visit Lviv. Take in the the culture, the history, the architecture, the unusual cats in the Cat Cafe, the decadent desserts at Lviv Chocolate Factory, the unique atmosphere and delicious ribs at Arsenal Ribs, and so much more. Lviv is a unique and memorable experience.